Engines from mild to wild....Choose your weapon!

ENGINES

STOCK PORT

The size of standard intake ports varied somewhat depending on markets and time. The port seen here is quite a large standard port. Expected power output can be from a 13B will be 130-175hp, depending on port size, year, carb, and exhaust modifications.

STREET 4-PORT

4-port street porting design enlarges the port marginally giving more top end power with slightly less bottom end (much like a mild cam in a conventional motor). Original carb and exhaust can be retained (with only a slight loss in power), and the vehicle will be very driveable in every day traffic. Expected power output can be from 200-225hp, depending on port size, intake and exhaust modifications. Good for street Use.

STREET 6-PORT

6-port street porting design enlarges the ports marginally giving more top end power with slightly less bottom end (much like a mild cam in a conventional motor). Original carb and exhaust can be retained (with only a slight loss in power), and the vehicle will be very driveable in every day traffic. Expected power output can be from 210-235hp, depending on port size, intake and exhaust modifications. Good for street Use.

BRIDGE PORT

Bridge porting is possibly the most popular form of porting. Substantial power gains can be made at relatively low cost, whilst maintaining engine last ability. In order to obtain the maximum potential of the engine the standard carb must be replaced with a high performance carb, and the exhaust with a high flow item. This porting style increase the inlet and exhaust port overlap greatly, causing the distinctive brapping idle. More mid-range to top-end power will be developed by a bridge port, This requires the edge of the rotor housing to be cut just short of the water O-ring groove! Depending on primary and secondary port sizes. Expected power output of between 240-265hp. Great for NOS.

image coming soon

J-BRIDGE PORT

J-Bridge Porting is a little ambiguous in it's definition, so I'll try to give the most logical definition possible. A J-Port is a Bridgeport that has had the secondary port widened beyond the edge of the rotor housing. This requires the edge of the rotor housing to be cut water O-ring groove are Iliminated! Good for 260-280hp.

early 1rst gen 4-port engine

D-BRIDGE PORT

D-Port is the most radical of the porting designs. It is similar to the Bridge and J Ports, but due to the size of the secondary port, a large amount of the rotor housing must be cut into the water jacket, and filled to prevent water leakage. A gap must be cut in the water O-ring and sealed off. The purpose of the motor was to dodge rules preventing peripheral ports in competition racing. Engine life is greatly reduced to about 6 months or before (usually water leaking into the motor). Expected power output 280-300hp.

PERIPHERAL PORT

A Peripheral Port involves blocking the side intake ports with devcon (or similar) and cutting a large port in the rotor housing. Although this engine will last better than the Monster Port. 300-400hp

(DEPENDING ON COMBINATION USED)

LABOR COST

Street Porting $500

Bridge Porting $800

P-Port Porting $1,200

Engine Assembly $800

Parts list for rotary engine rebuild

1. 6-Apex Seal (Upgraded version)

2. 6-Apex seal spring on inner (86-95)

3. 6-apex seal spring on outer (74-95)

4. 12-corner seal

5. 12-corner seal spring

6. 12-side seal*

7. 12-side seal spring

8. 4-side oil seal spring front/rear inner*

9. 4-side oil seal spring front/rear outer*

10. 4-rotor side oil seal (small O-ring)

11. 4-rotor side oil seal (large O-ring)

12. 1 seal oil front main

13. 1-seal oil rear main

14. 2-bearing rotary engine

15. 2-stationary bearing

16. engine gasket set

Cut rotors to 3mm $350.00 per set

New rotor housings from $600.00 + each one

Resurfacing/lapping irons $300.00

*Replaced if needed

WARRANTY INFO

Any form of racing, or very hard driving puts extreme loads on all parts. Any parts used in a race car/or high load capacity carries the basic no warranty of any kind and are sold "AS IS". Any implied warranties of fitting a particular application are denied. The purchaser and/or end user acknowledges they are fully responsible for any and all costs of replacing or repairing any part for any reason. If the purchaser is not to be the end user, then purchaser assumes all responsibility, expressed or implied, of all subsequent users of parts supplied by/thru dfwrotary.com. Purchaser also assumes ALL responsibility/risks for anything that might change/make illegal the use of the vehicle on public roads.
Any parts supplied cannot be warranted beyond the warranty of the specific manufacturer / supplier (engines have limited warranty - see following paragraphs).
Engine warranties require normal and adequate maintenance. This includes oil and filter changes every 3000 miles. At installation time the radiator must be at least flushed and pressure tested by a competent radiator shop. The thermostat must be changed and all warning lights must always remain functional. The oil and filter must be changed at the first 500 miles.

Typical examples of abuse/faulty installation are:
1. Run low/out of oil - Rotor and/or main bearings damaged. Contact of rotor to rotor housing, premature wearing of oil control rings, blueing of eccentric shaft.
2. Over reving -Rotor to rotor housing contact, contact of corner seal area of rotor to side housing. Apex seal spring collapsing, excessive apex seal chatter, bent eccentric.
3. Malfunctioning oil metering system - Premature wear of apex seals, corner seals, and side seals. Metal-to-metal contact of corner seal to side housing.
4. Timing advanced too much - Chipping/cracking/pitting of apex seals, excessive wear of apex and side seal grooves, collapsed apex springs.
5. Mixture too lean - Essentially the same as above. If a turbo or nitrous oxide is used cracked side housing around dowl pin area.
6. Mixture to rich - Premature wear of apex, side, and corner seals, as well as excessive wear of oil control rings. Excessive carbon build-up on rotors.
7. Oil overheating - Excessive wear of just about everything, usually has bearing failure.
8. Water overheating - Smells burnt, warped rotor housing, frozen seals, collapsed springs, rotor to side housing contact. Blueing of metal pieces. Water seals actually disintegrating.

Note: All of the above is damage that can be seen inside of the engine
This is ignoring the obvious abuse/poor installation clues such as
nuts/bolt/washers/sockets/screwdriver tips/or paper clips imbedded in the rotor.